Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Day Thirty Seven: happy birthday, sally's cafe, century

Happy Birthday To Me.

Today is my birthday, and this bicycle trip is my birthday present. When I first told Heather, my wife, that this is what I wanted she understandably wasn't too excited about it. She's always been very supportive of my trips, but we had just moved to a new city. A city in which we didn't really know anyone. She would be starting a new job. Alone, in a strange place for two weeks, then I leave.

For TWO MONTHS. "Bye, Honey!"

But it's what I wanted, so she said yes.

Heather is quite an amazing person. When I met her, she was working as a forklift driver to pay her way through college. (certified on every forklift except one) She's one of the smartest people I know, and eventually decided to go to medical school. She recently completed her residency at the Mayo Clinic.

In addition to being smart, she's very well-read. For her sixth birthday, she wanted to go to the public library to get her own library card so she wouldn't have to use her parents' card. She continues to read everything she touches, including directions, newspapers, and cereal boxes. She's even read War and Peace.

In addition to being smart and well-read, she's handy. Unlike me, she can do plumbing, electrical, carpentry, and some automotive work. I can fill the car up with gas.

In addition to being smart and well-read and handy, she's fun to be around. She's always finding cool stuff to do, and she helps keep me young.

But the best thing about her is that she's my wife. So...

EVERY day is my birthday.

From Mark and Heather's World


Wanda had a meeting this morning that she couldn't miss, so my parents took me back to the Ranger Station. A cold front came through last night so it was a little cool. The temperature was low enough for there to be frost on the ground. Still, I'm not quite ready to complain about cold temperatures. Not yet.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


From Mark on a Bike 08 2


I'm going to try to make it to Kountze (pop 1570) today. Shepherd is about forty miles away. That's too short, but the next place to stay after that isn't until Kountze. That'll make it an 88-mile day. I've had two days to rest, and am feeling pretty good.

For an old guy, anyway.

Here are some pictures I took this morning...

Trust Jesus, but put bars on the doors and windows for everyone else.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


The name of this town is "Pumpkin." I know that because I saw it on the state-made sign, and because that's what my map says.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


I stopped in Shepherd for a short lunch at Sally's Cafe. When I walked in, everyone got quiet and stared at me for a second, then resumed their conversations. The place is dark, with brown paneling. The ceiling tile used to be white, but the years of cigarette smoke have browned it as well.

I ordered a cheeseburger and sat there in my booth, listening to snatches of conversation...

"I buried my momma two weeks ago. I tried to call you but didn't know how to get in touch with you."

"They just found out that Oh-bamma's daddy was really a communist poet."

"The reason those Democrats don't get Sarah Palin is because she's just so brutally honest."

"Skin Cancer. They took a piece from here and folded it down to my nose."
"Huh. I thought maybe Nancy had broke your nose."
"Naw, it'd be worse'n that if I done it."

I only took one picture because I felt like a sore thumb, and I tried to take it when no one was looking. The top sign says "Notice: Sexual Harassment in this area will not be reported. However, it will be graded."

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


After lunch, I rode hard through Dolen, Romayor, and Thicket with my ever-present headwind to keep me company. This part of Texas is called The Big Thicket. The reason for the name is that the forests have so much growth that they're impenetrable. The side of the road was like a giant wall of trees and brush.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


From Mark on a Bike 08 2


From Mark on a Bike 08 2


I stopped for a break and a drink in Honey Island. It's just 7 miles short of Kountze - I'm almost there. It's a good thing, too, since the shadows are getting pretty long.

The owner of the store, Joe, was pretty busy. However, he did come outside for a couple of minutes to sit with me at the picnic table. After his usual questions, he said he sees quite a number of bikers every year. I explained about the ACA maps and he nodded and said, "Ahhhh, so THAT'S it."

Then he asked me where I was planning on staying tonight. When I said a motel in Kountze he said, "You ain't gonna get one."

He went on to explain that all of the motels are full because of Hurricane Ike. Not only are there a lot of displaced people, there are also FEMA workers swarming all over the place.

Then he grabbed a phone and a phone book and called all of the motels in Kountze. All of them said they were booked up, so he started calling the ones in Silsbee. After about the third one, he said, "You do? Hang on a sec. Let me let you talk to a friend of mine."

I told the guy to PLEASE don't give it to anyone else. I'm on my way. I didn't even ask how much it costs.

Joe went back to work while I was talking to the motel manager. He was always on the phone, and more frequently than not he was on two phones, the store phone and his cell phone. "Well, I wasn't planning on selling it. I don't know what it's worth, but I give four fifty for it."

This is the best picture I have of him. He's on the phone.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


I waited a few minutes to thank him, but he was too busy so I caught his eye, mouthed "Thank you" and took off.

I had ridden a little more than 80 miles and was already tired, but I found the strength somewhere as I practically sprinted toward Kountze, then Silsbee. I passed a motel in Kountze and stopped to ask about a room, just on the off chance... but there were no vacancies.

It was getting darker and darker. Before leaving Kountze and pedaling the final ten miles I pulled out my flashing red light and attached it to the back of my bike.

When I finally reached Silsbee (pop 4915) I followed the ACA route through town looking for the motel. By the time I got to the other end of town I still hadn't seen it so I asked a couple who were closing up their shop. The woman told me how to get there, and a back way to do it.

When I arrived at the motel my odometer read 99.82, so I pedaled another hundred feet beyond and turned around.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


I checked in and was surprised at the cost of a room. I think the area's motels might've gone up in price shortly after the hurricane hit. One guy who was checking in actually said something to that effect, and the manager replied, laughing, that, "No, we went up right BEFORE the hurricane."

I showered, then rode my bike to Pizza Hut for supper because, you know, I just don't get out and ride enough.

I remember seeing Jack LaLanne on TV as I was growing up. As he got older, he continued to preach physical fitness. Each year for his birthday he performs some amazing feat. For his 70th birthday, he fought strong winds and currents as he swam 1.5 miles while towing 70 boats with 70 people from the Queen's Way Bridge in the Long Beach Harbor to the Queen Mary. He was handcuffed and shackled when he did it.

I'm no Jack LaLanne...

Still, 100 miles...

Not too bad for an old guy.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


100.89 distance
13.3 average
26.9 maximum
7:33:39 time
1785.9 total

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