Sunday, November 9, 2008

Day Forty Nine: defuniak springs, edith, speared

I woke up earlier than I wanted so I went downstairs to eat breakfast and found Susan, Hewes, and Paul. I joined them for another meal before they left.

I took a few more pictures before saying goodbye.

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


Hewes and Susan ride a tandem....

From mark on a bike 08 3


Back upstairs, I blogged a while then fell asleep until noon.

DeFuniak Springs is an old town built around a small, almost perfectly-round lake which is fed by a spring. The name of the street circling the lake is, appropriately, Circle Drive.

Circle Drive is lined with many ancient trees and a large number of historic homes. I picked up a brochure which had a walking tour around the lake and a description of all of the homes. Some of the houses have interesting features... double wrap-around verandas, reverse mansard eaves, petronite construction, three-story square bay, and one even has an octagonal shape. I don't even know what some of those words mean.







This tree is the eighth largest magnolia in Florida. It has a spreading crown of 78 feet, is 60 feet tall, and has a trunk circumference of just under 14 feet. It's over a hundred years old.

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


The public library is the second oldest in Florida, with St. Augustine being the only one that's older.

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On the way back I stopped for some barbecue then went back to my room.

That evening I ordered some pizza and had it delivered to the hotel. While I was waiting for it to be delivered the woman at the desk struck up a conversation with me.

Her name is Edith. She's 80 years old and her daughter owns the hotel and the restaurant (Bogey's). Edith was born in Scotland, but has been in America since her early twenties.

From mark on a bike 08 3


She told me a lot of stories about her childhood, such as how she and her friend used to "borrow" bikes from the miners so they could ride into town.

In 1949 she enlisted in the military for four years, after which she moved to London for two years. A friend of hers moved to Boston and used to write her letters and send pictures about how wonderful the States were so she decided to move here. Her parents wouldn't let her come until AFTER the war because a German submarine had sunk a boat with civilians on it.

After moving here, she never saw her friend in Boston.

Upon her arrival in America, she worked as a nanny for a Jewish family in New York. She despised the parents and their bratty children, and left after six months by marrying her first husband, a Merchant Marine. He had actually heard of the small town where she grew up, and that was all it took for her to fall in love.

From New York, she moved to Florida, then Tulsa, New Jersy, and finally California. Edith told me she didn't see a dead person until she was 70.

At one point in her young working career she worked for a guy in the mafia, but made me promise never to repeat his name. I did a google search and found no mention of anyone with that name connected to the mafia. I did, however, find a minor league baseball pitcher (bats left, throws left), a columnist who writes about sports cars, and a professional photographer in Phoenix.

So far, I haven't met anyone who doesn't have an opinion on the election and Edith is no exception. She eventually got around to talking about Obama. She said she's afraid of him because of his friends. "My mother used to tell me, 'You can always tell what kind of person someone is by the friends they keep.'" I was never able to ascertain which friends she was talking about, just that they're Muslim.

Then, as an afterthought, her eyes got wide and she said, "You're not Muslim, are you?" Without waiting for an answer she said, "My daughter is always telling me not to talk about religion or politics, and I always tell her I won't." Then she gave me one of those disarming smiles she's been using on people for eighty years. She added that, at eighty years old, she feels entitled to talk about whatever she wants. If she says something silly or wrong, she just tells people she has Alzheimer's.

Just minutes before my pizza arrived Edith taught me a new word, "spearing." It's obtaining information about someone just by chatting, and she said she's pretty good at it. She said she's never met someone she didn't like, and they seem to open up to her. If she sits next to someone on a plane, for example, by the end of the trip she'll know just about everything there is to know about them.

After she told me what it meant, she paused, narrowed her eyes, and said, "You're from Idaho, aren't you?"

"Iowa."

"Right! I KNEW it!"

Yup, I guess I've been speared.


2.98 miles
5.2 average
23.6 maximum
0:34:18 time
2423.8 total

Saturday, November 8, 2008

Day Forty Eight: joe/robin, tailwind, h & m, az friends

Yesterday, on the way to the hotel, I had passed a Waffle House. Since I'm still having visions of the breakfast I had in Jackson I decided to stop and have a hearty breakfast there this morning.

To get back on the ACA route I would have had to ride back in the direction I came, so instead I opted to slip onto 90, thereby saving a few miles. Bikers REALLY hate to go backwards. Also, getting on 90 instead of the ACA route will cut an additional ten miles off. Fortunately, the road was excellent, with a good, smooth shoulder and little traffic.

From mark on a bike 08 3


I thought I might stop in Crestview for lunch, but was making such good time that I decided to keep going.

Just east of Crestview I met Joe and Robin, two bikers going from Florida to San Diego. They're originally from Ireland, and have the strong accent to prove it, but currently they're living in Chicago. Like Ari and Erin, they're riding for a cause, Juvenile Diabetes.

We only chatted briefly, and mainly about the route. They're considering getting off the ACA route and traveling along the coast to New Orleans. I talked to Klaus yesterday, and since he pedaled down to New Orleans to visit the city, I gave them his email address for more information about the route in case they decide to go that way.

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


Today is the first day in which I've had a tailwind AND good weather. The skies are clear, and the temperature is in the low 70s. My average shows it.

Here's a town EVERYbody wants to live in.

From mark on a bike 08 3


My stopping point for the day is DeFuniak Springs. I was too early to check into the hotel, so I went to a place recommended by the woman at the hotel desk, H & M Hot Dog.

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Walking into the place, I felt like I had stepped back into time by fifty years. For the first five minutes there was no place to sit. The counter, which is the only place to sit in the narrow building, has about ten seats.

You watch the short order cook as he fixes your meal. He's lightning fast, and doing ten things at once. The cashier said they cook about fifty pounds of hamburgers a day, but hot dogs are their real specialty.

A quick picture of the cook.

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


When I was there at 2:45 it was really busy. The cashier said that it was actually slow for them.

There aren't many complaints about the place.

From mark on a bike 08 3


Back at the hotel I checked in, showered, and blogged until time to eat again.

For dinner I went downstairs to eat at Bogey's. As I was being directed to my table I passed three people, two of whom looked familiar. I did a double take and realized I'd met them before - in Salome, Arizona... Susan and Hewes Agnew. Paul, the guy who had been sick, was also with them. It was kind of weird to meet them again after so long.

They invited me to join them so I sat down and we did some catching up.

We had a leisurely dinner together and, as the live music played and the octogenarians danced, we swapped stories of the road... where we've been staying, things that've happened to us.

I learned that the campground in Vancleave where I would've stayed if Jim hadn't picked me up was the worst one during the entire trip for them. I, in turn, shared my experiences about the Bamboo Motel in Mamou. Instead of pedaling across West Texas, they rented a car in El Paso and drove to Del Rio, skipping that entire section. I let them know how much fun they could've had picking pieces of West Texas out of their tires. Paul has been having some fun asking people who they voted for, and why. He's received some interesting "why" answers.

From mark on a bike 08 3


Today has been a rest day for them. They arrived in DeFuniak Springs yesterday, and will be leaving in the morning.

I've been riding for six days, and I feel reslly fresh. After my ride yesterday I felt like I could've gone another sixty miles, even in the rain. Today, after riding almost that far I feel like I could ride forever.

I think I'll take tomorrow off.


58.19 miles
15.1 mph average speed (only with a tailwind!)
27.9 maximum
3:50:40 time
2420.8 total

Friday, November 7, 2008

Day Forty Seven: florida, rain, mike

The weather forecasters say it's supposed to rain today. They say there's a fifty percent chance. Should I believe them? These are the same guys who say things like "The low will be 30 and the high will be 45. The current temperature is 22." We'll see.

I'm almost hoping it does rain. I bought some new pannier bags this year. Last year I had some that are "water resistant." These are waterproof, and the manufacturer (German, as Klaus pointed out) brags in their ads that it's the only pannier bag in which you can take your goldfish with you on tour. You can actually fill them up with water and they won't leak.

I hope it doesn't come to that.

As I mentioned yesterday, since crossing the ferry yesterday, and also as I ride today, I would estimate that about one third to one half of the condos and houses are for sale. What's even more interesting is that there is an amazing amount of construction going on right now. They're building like crazy along here.

From mark on a bike 08 3


Although it's not raining, the humidity is around 100%, and it's overcast. These patches of sand are so rare that they're actually picture-worthy. Everywhere else you look there's a 60-story building.

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


There was a nice bike lane for most of the morning.

From mark on a bike 08 3


You can tell which way the prevailing winds blow...

From mark on a bike 08 3


Crossing over the Perdido Bay Bridge, I entered Florida... my last state.

From mark on a bike 08 3


As I was crossing the bridge I noticed these gates every twenty feet or so. I thought it was odd. Why would you have a gate, albeit locked, way up on a bridge. There's nothing on the other side but air.

From mark on a bike 08 3


In Pensacola, I accidentally got off the route. Sometimes, it's a matter of paying attention to the map or paying attention to traffic. I generally choose the latter. Since it was time for lunch anyway I just picked a place downtown. The place I went to, New York Nick's, looked like it had been in business for a long time. There were signed pictures of a lot of celebrities eating there.

I began riding again at 1:15. About half an hour later it started raining so I decided to pull over and see if it slacked up a bit. Ten minutes later it did, so I put on my rain pants and booties (er, I mean shoe covers) and started riding. There had been enough rain so that there were puddles, and everything below my knees was getting wet.

It rained intermittently, though not heavily, for about an hour. When I got to Pace it started raining pretty hard - hard enough so that it was difficult to ride because the rain was hitting me in the face. I stopped under an awning for another ten minutes and it lightened up a little, so I put on my rain jacket and started riding again. After another twenty minutes the rain started in earnest again. This time I just kept riding. This is the type of rain we used to describe as "a real gullywasher." I guess the weather reporters were half right today.

From mark on a bike 08 3


Normally, as adults, we go to great lengths to avoid getting wet when it's raining. Today, however, I feel like a little kid outside playing during a rainstorm. There's something kind of fun about riding in the rain. Right now it just doesn't matter if I get wet. My gear is nice and dry, I'm not cold, so why not just enjoy it? Try it sometime. Maybe not on your way to work, but try it.

Pictures taken along the way....

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3

(I guess they keep the junky cars in the garage)


Not a drop of water around...
From mark on a bike 08 3


This flag was on my right side.

From mark on a bike 08 3


I started getting hungry again, so I stopped for a hamburger at Wendy's. While I was there I asked the cashier where the Red Carpet Inn was. She didn't know, and asked a couple of other people. Finally, a guy told me it was about five miles away - and in the direction from which I'd just come. I thought it seemed odd that the ACA list would have something that far off the route, so I thought I'd ask someone else before riding that far. As I was walking to the door the only other customer there asked me where I started. That's always the opening line.

From there, he told me that he'd like to hike from Mexico to Alaska next year. He's 64 and ready to retire, and has enough saved to be able to live comfortably. I bought a Frosty and sat down to join him. He would consider doing a bike trip, but "there are a lot of crazy people on the road."

His name is Mike. He lives in the area and is employed making airplanes for the government. He really likes his job and they treat him well, or he'd already be somewhere else by now. He said this is the longest he's ever lived in one place. "How long is that?" I asked. "Five years."

What he does is classified so he said, "If I told you I'd have to kill you." I laughed and said that I really didn't want to know that badly. He was able to get the job because of his previous classified clearance. He's worked with airplanes since he was in VietNam.

Mike did three tours in VietNam as a Marine. I asked, "So is it true? Once a Marine, always a Marine?" He pointed over to his truck outside and I noticed the Marines license plate, the Marines license plate holder, the Marine bumper stickers, and the POW/MIA magnetic stickers on it. He didn't need to say anything else about it.

After his first tour he asked to be retrained to do something else. Then, gazing out the rain-splattered window, he added, "I've done things I'm not really proud of... but someone had to do them."

"I had nightmares for four years," he added.

Then he came back to the present, smiled, and said "I learned to field strip an airplane and put it back together in half an hour." He's been working with aircraft since that time.

I asked him where the Red Carpet Inn was, and told him where the guy behind the counter had said it was. He said, "No... That's the Red Roof Inn," and gave me accurate directions.

Eventually, I found the motel. I'm feeling pretty good this evening. Even after riding for five days, I don't feel tired, and I don't have the normal aches and pains that accumulate over a few days riding, so I'm thinking of postponing my rest day.

I am hard.

Okay, maybe not... but perhaps hardening.

a picture of my very wet bike:

From mark on a bike 08 3
But everything inside is dry!

60.18 miles
14.0 average
32 mph maximum
4:16:48 time
2362.6 total miles

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Day Forty Six: dauphin island, ferry, william

We left early enough so that we were able to stop by Jim's office. He's a Port Captain for NOAA and has a great view of the harbor.

Before we said goodbye I gave him Klaus' email and phone number. Later, I was CC'd on an email inviting Klaus to stay with them. They're really nice people and I enjoyed my stay there.

I crossed the border into Alabama this morning.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


This morning I passed through Bayou La Batre, which is where Bubba is from in the the movie Forrest Gump.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


Of course, there are shrimping boats here as well.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


I can think of a few people who should be buried here, present company included.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


On the east side of Bayou La Batre I felt the temperature drop by about five degrees. The breeze was coming off Mobile Bay. For the first time on this trip I smelled fish. Fish, that is, that hasn't been battered and fried.

The road is great, there's not much traffic, the temperature is in the low 70s. This is almost perfect....

Almost.

That's a beautiful sight, isn't it? And yes, it's on my left side.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


Some pictures along the way...

Not much traffic out here.

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


This guy is ready for a flood, even in a mobile home.

From mark on a bike 08 3

(in case you're looking, the satellite dish is near the street out of the picture)

From Mark on a Bike 08 2


From Mark on a Bike 08 2


From mark on a bike 08 3


Some people were just born to be firefighters.

From mark on a bike 08 3

(Though perhaps not a very good one. Perhaps he should've been a cake decorator?)

The bridge to Dauphin Island...

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


Apparently, on Dauphin Island you can get a condo for your boat.

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


Also on Dauphin Island...

From mark on a bike 08 3


I'm just wondering what kind of events they have. Octopus riding, shrimp wrangling, Miss Fish contestants?

This morning Jim recommended that I call the ferry to find out the schedule. It never dawned on me that there might be a schedule. I was thinking more along the lines of, "OK! Mark's here.... We can leave now!"

It leaves from Dauphin Island every ninety minutes starting at 8AM. I arrived on Dauphin Island at 1:15 and had just enough time to eat some lunch and ride the final two miles to catch the 2PM ferry.

From mark on a bike 08 3


Before we left, one of the crew (the ONLY crew member besides the captain) and I began talking. He was a school superintendent in Indiana before his retirement. When he retired a few years ago, they sold everything they had... house, furniture, cars... and bought a 36-foot RV.

Their plan was to travel all over the country. He and his wife had been to Dauphin Island on their vacations in the past, so they thought it would be a good place to start their tour of the country. He pointed across the street at the RV Park. "That's mine right there. We're still here."

That was more than three years ago.

He loves his job, ferrying people back and forth all day. He has absolutely no stress in his life and is really happy.

There were only two cars on the ferry when it left. A spry, elderly man got out of one of them and, after taking a tour of the boat and talking to the retired superintendent, came over to me.

His name is William Lipsey. He's a 76-year-old cotton gin salesman from Mississippi. He LOVES working ("If ya stop workin', ya die!"), and his job takes him all over the region. Subsequently, he knows the roads very well. When he found out which cities I planned to go through, he seemed very intent on changing my mind and having me pedal along the coast. When I explained about the ACA maps he remained unconvinced.

I finally just started nodding. Nodding and smiling.

He also told me about some empty RV Parks on the other side of the ferry where I could camp. "The Yankees hain't found 'em yet."

"How old are you?" he asked.
"Fifty."
"Fifty!" he bellowed. "I had my first heart attack at fifty!"

He looked away for a second, then looked back at me. "Do you know the Lord Jesus Christ as your personal Lord and Savior?" I opened my mouth to speak, but William continued, "Let me fill your cup from mine today." He went on to tell me about Jesus, Zacchaeus, Paul, Mary, and several of the disciples. After fifteen minutes he was just getting warmed up when we pulled into the dock and he had to get back into his car.

Superintendent on the left, William on the right.

From mark on a bike 08 3


From mark on a bike 08 3


In the background you can where they're drilling for gas.

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On the eastern side of the ferry there were a gazillion condos and rental houses. (I counted each one.) Guessing, I would say just under half of them were for sale. This is a sparse section where there aren't many.

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There is a seven-mile bike path which runs along the peninsula, but after about half a mile I got back onto the road because it wasn't in very good condition. Roots were pushing up on the concrete, and there was a lot of debris on it.

From mark on a bike 08 3


The road really isn't bad, especially as I got nearer Gulf Shores.

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It's okay to dump your trash on the SIDE of the road, just don't leave it on the road itself.

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I stopped for the night in Gulf Shores, though not at the vacant RV Park as William had suggested.

63.78
12.9
27.9
4:55:08
2302.4